Introduction
A day trip to Three Shires Head and Monsal Dale is a great way to experience two very different sides of the Peak District. Both have waterfalls at their heart, but the landscapes and experiences are quite different, making them a good combination for a full day out.
Three Shires Head takes you into a more remote-feeling valley surrounded by open moorland, where waterfalls, natural pools and a historic packhorse bridge sit around the River Dane. Monsal Dale offers a completely different setting, with the River Wye winding through a dramatic limestone valley beneath the impressive Headstone Viaduct.
Quick Verdict of Three Shires Head and Monsal Dale
This is a fantastic Peak District waterfall day if you want to see two very different locations in one trip. Three Shires Head is the more secluded of the two, with its waterfalls, pools and historic bridge tucked away in the moorland, while Monsal Dale has a much more dramatic valley setting and some of the area’s most recognisable landmarks.
Both stops are worth spending time exploring rather than simply arriving, taking a photograph and leaving, so I’d allow a full day for the trip. The combination of waterfalls, countryside, historic features and walking makes this much more than simply ticking two waterfalls off a list.
Key Information
- Number of Waterfalls: 2
- Total Walking Distance: 5 miles/8 km
- Total Walking Time: Approximately 1 hour 40 minutes
- Total Trip Time: 5 hours + (allow a full day if stopping for lunch)
- Starting Point: Lane next to A54 parking as detailed below
- Parking: Free Parking | Three Shires Head – A54 | what3words | Monsal Dale – Butts Road, Bakewell | what3words
- Driving Distance/Time Between Waterfalls: 23 miles taking approximately 42 minutes
- Public Transport: Driving recommended for this trip. Public transport options are detailed on individual waterfall guides
- Difficulty: Easy
- Accessibility: Not suitable for wheelchairs
- Family Friendly: Yes
- Dogs: Yes
- Swimming: Swimming is possible at Three Shires Head; conditions at Monsal Dale vary
- Toilets: Available at Monsal Head Car Park | None at Three Shires Head
Three Shires Head Waterfall
Three Shires Head is the first stop on this waterfall day and one of the more distinctive waterfall locations in the Peak District.
The waterfalls are found along the River Dane beneath the historic Panniers Pool Bridge, with pools below them and open moorland rising around the valley. The location is also where the boundaries of Derbyshire, Cheshire and Staffordshire meet, which is where Three Shires Head gets its name.
The setting is quite different from Monsal Dale. There are no major landmarks dominating the landscape here. Instead, the appeal comes from the combination of the waterfalls, the old stone bridge, the river and the surrounding moorland.
The Panniers Pool Bridge is a historic packhorse bridge, thought to date from the late 18th century. Its position above the waterfalls makes it one of the most recognisable features of Three Shires Head and gives the waterfalls a particularly picturesque setting.
The walk down to the waterfalls also gives you the chance to enjoy the surrounding countryside, with open views across the moorland before the path descends into the valley.
If you’d like more detail about the route, parking and what to expect, see my full Three Shires Head Waterfall Guide.
Monsal Dale Waterfall
Monsal Dale makes an excellent second stop because it provides a complete change of scenery. The River Wye runs through a dramatic limestone valley, with the waterfall situated beneath the impressive Headstone Viaduct.
The walk gives you the opportunity to see considerably more than the waterfall itself. Depending on the route you take, you can walk beneath or alongside the viaduct, follow the former railway line and pass through Headstone Tunnel.
Headstone Viaduct is one of the defining landmarks of Monsal Dale. The five-arched structure was built for the Midland Railway in the 1860s and now forms part of the Monsal Trail.
The former railway line is one of the things that makes this stop particularly interesting, as the route combines the natural scenery of the dale with some impressive examples of Victorian railway engineering.
If you’d like more detail about the route, parking and what to expect, see my full Monsal Dale Waterfall Guide.
The Route to Three Shires Head and Monsal Dale
Three Shires Head
The walk to Three Shires Head begins from the parking area beside the A54. From here, you’ll follow the quiet lane before joining the path across Axe Edge Moor.
The route initially follows a fairly straightforward track, with open views across the surrounding countryside. As you continue, the landscape gradually becomes more remote, with the path heading towards the valley where the River Dane runs below.
The walk is mostly downhill on the way to the waterfalls, with a couple of steeper sections along the route. The open moorland means there are some lovely views as you walk, and the scenery changes as you get closer to the valley.
Eventually, the two waterfalls at Three Shires Head come into view below, with the historic Panniers Pool Bridge sitting above the river. This is the main highlight of the walk, and you can spend some time exploring the waterfalls, pools and bridge before making your way back.
The return journey follows the same route back towards the A54, so remember that the downhill sections you walked earlier will become uphill sections on the way back.
I’d allow around 1.5 hours at Three Shires Head, rather than just allowing the walking time. This gives you time to walk to the waterfalls, explore the area and enjoy the surrounding countryside without feeling rushed.
Driving to Monsal Dale
Once you’ve finished exploring Three Shires Head, return to your car and make your way towards Monsal Head, where you’ll start the second walk.
The drive takes you away from the open moorland around Three Shires Head and through the Peak District countryside towards Monsal Dale. It’s a good opportunity to stop somewhere along the way if you want to pick up food or a drink before starting the second walk, particularly as there are no facilities at Three Shires Head.
As you get closer to Monsal Head, the landscape changes noticeably. The open moorland gives way to the limestone valleys and more wooded scenery around Monsal Dale.
There are several parking options around Monsal Head, including the roadside parking I used for my individual Monsal Dale walk and the larger Monsal Head car park. If you’re visiting at a busy time, I’d recommend allowing some extra time to find a space before starting the walk.
Once parked, you can head towards the Monsal Head viewpoint before beginning the descent into Monsal Dale. This gives you a chance to take in the famous view across the valley and towards Headstone Viaduct before setting off.
The driving distance between the two waterfalls is approximately 23 miles, taking around 42 minutes depending on your exact starting and parking points.
Monsal Dale
The Monsal Dale walk begins around Monsal Head, where you can first take in the famous view across the dale and towards Headstone Viaduct.
From here, the path descends through woodland into Monsal Dale. The surroundings gradually change from the open viewpoint at Monsal Head to the wooded valley, with the River Wye below.
The waterfall is reached after a relatively short walk, and you’ll hear the water before you see it. Once you arrive, there are viewpoints from different sides of the river, allowing you to see the wide weir from more than one angle.
At the left side of the weir there is a grassy area where you can stop for lunch and enjoy a picnic before continuing on with the walk.
After spending some time at the waterfall, you can continue around the longer circular route rather than simply returning the way you came. This takes you through more of Monsal Dale and towards Headstone Viaduct, one of the most impressive landmarks on the route.
You’ll then join the Monsal Trail, which follows the former railway line. This section gives you a completely different perspective of the valley, with the route passing across the viaduct and then through Headstone Tunnel.
The tunnel is a particularly interesting part of the walk and gives you a real sense of the railway history of Monsal Dale. Once through the tunnel, the route continues towards Little Longstone before eventually taking you back towards Monsal Head.
There are also several opportunities along this section to stop and take in views across the dale, so I’d avoid rushing this part of the walk.
The Monsal Dale route is longer than the walk to Three Shires Head and has some steeper sections, particularly on the way back out of the dale. However, it also gives you considerably more to see, making it a good second stop for the day.
Completing the Trip
Once you’ve returned to Monsal Head, you’ll have finished the two waterfall walks. If you still have time and energy, you can spend some time at the Monsal Head viewpoint before heading home, or continue into nearby Bakewell for food and a look around the town.
Overall, the two walks give you a great contrast: Three Shires Head takes you across open moorland to two waterfalls and a historic bridge in a secluded valley, while Monsal Dale combines a waterfall with limestone scenery, a historic viaduct, a former railway trail and a long tunnel.
That contrast is really what makes them work so well as a single Peak District waterfall day.
Accessibility: Unfortunately, these routes are not suitable for wheelchairs.
Tip: Save the parking location and route directions on your phone, or take a printed copy with you, as phone signal can be spotty.
Swimming at Three Shires Head and Monsal Dale
If you’re looking to add a swim to your waterfall day, Three Shires Head is the clear winner. The larger pool beneath the waterfalls is deep enough for swimming and makes a fantastic place to cool off after the walk.
Monsal Dale also has sections of the River Wye that are deep enough for swimming, although when I visited the river was flowing particularly strongly, so I decided to leave the swimming for another day.
For me, Three Shires Head would be the place to bring your swimming gear. There’s something pretty special about swimming in a natural pool beneath the waterfalls, surrounded by the open Peak District countryside.
If you’re considering swimming here, please read my Wild Swimming at Waterfalls guide before getting in. It covers some of the risks to consider and practical advice for staying safe around natural swimming spots.
Interesting Facts and Wildlife
There is plenty to discover beyond the waterfalls themselves, and the two locations have very different stories to tell.
Three Shires Head gets its name from the point where Derbyshire, Cheshire and Staffordshire meet. The River Dane runs through the valley, with the two waterfalls, pools and historic Panniers Pool Bridge creating the distinctive setting. The old packhorse bridge is one of the most recognisable features here and gives the waterfalls plenty of character.
The surrounding countryside is also home to plenty of wildlife. When I visited, I spotted sheep around the valley and ducks enjoying the water beneath the waterfalls. Keep an eye out around the river and surrounding moorland for birds and other wildlife as you walk.
Monsal Dale has a fascinating railway history. Headstone Viaduct was built in the 1860s to carry the railway across the valley and is now one of the area’s best-known landmarks. The former railway line has since become the Monsal Trail, while Headstone Tunnel allows visitors to experience part of the original railway route.
The mixture of river, woodland, grassland and limestone scenery around Monsal Dale also creates plenty of opportunities for wildlife spotting. Keep an eye around the river and woodland edges as you make your way through the dale.
Facilities and Nearby Attractions
There are no toilets, cafés or other facilities at Three Shires Head, so take everything you need with you for this part of the trip.
Monsal Dale has more facilities around Monsal Head, including public toilets and places to eat and drink. There are also several suitable places around the dale to stop for a picnic, so taking lunch with you is a good option if you want to eat during the walk.
Alternatively, the pub at Monsal Head is a convenient option for lunch or a drink. Depending on what time you start the day and when you want to eat, you could have lunch at the pub before or after the Monsal Dale walk.
There are plenty of other attractions nearby if you want to extend the day. Around Three Shires Head, Lud’s Church, The Roaches and Flash are all worth considering. Around Monsal Dale, you can explore Monsal Head, Headstone Viaduct, Headstone Tunnel and the Monsal Trail. Bakewell is also within easy reach and is another option for food or a walk around the town.
Best Time to Visit Three Shires Head and Monsal Dale
Both locations can be visited throughout the year, but spring and autumn would be my preferred times for this trip. The changing colours across the Peak District make both walks particularly scenic, while the cooler temperatures are generally more comfortable when you’re combining two walks in one day.
I visited both Three Shires Head and Monsal Dale in March. Three Shires Head was particularly quiet when I visited, with only a handful of people along the route and the waterfalls to myself. At Monsal Dale, there was plenty of water in the River Wye, and the strong flow over the waterfall made it particularly impressive.
Summer is a good option if you want longer daylight hours and warmer weather, particularly if you want to take your time at both locations. However, these are popular areas of the Peak District and can be busier during good weather, weekends and school holidays.
Recent rainfall can make both waterfalls more impressive, although wetter conditions can also make parts of the walks muddy. Winter can also be a good time to visit if you want to see stronger water flow and experience the locations when they are quieter.
If avoiding crowds is important to you, visiting on a weekday and starting early is a good option.
What to Take
Not sure what to take with you on your waterfall walk? I’ve put together a What to Pack for a Waterfall Walk guide covering the kit I recommend, from walking footwear and waterproofs to food, water and other useful essentials.
If you’re taking a picnic, a small cool bag or food container can be useful, particularly during warmer weather.
I visited both locations in March, so I would recommend checking the forecast before setting off and adjusting what you take accordingly. In warmer weather, prioritise sun protection and extra water, while waterproofs and an additional layer are useful when conditions are cooler or unsettled.
Responsible Waterfall Visiting and Safety
Please visit waterfalls responsibly.
Waterfalls can be beautiful places to explore, but they can also be unpredictable. Rocks, paths and viewing areas can become extremely slippery, especially after wet weather. Water levels and river conditions can change quickly, so always use common sense and take extra care around fast flowing water, steep drops and uneven ground.
Please follow the Countryside Code, leave no trace of your visit and take all litter home with you. Respect local communities, livestock, wildlife and any access restrictions that may be in place.
Before visiting, check local conditions and remember that you are responsible for your own safety.
I’ve put together a collection of practical resources to help you plan and enjoy your waterfall trips. From what to pack and how to find new waterfalls to wild swimming safety, you can browse all of my waterfall resources here.
Help Keep This Waterfall Guide Updated
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I do my best to keep every waterfall guide up to date, but things can change. Car parks close, paths get diverted, access arrangements change and facilities sometimes disappear.
If you’ve recently visited this waterfall and spotted any changes, please let me know. Whether it’s updated parking information, a damaged footpath, new access restrictions or anything else that could help future visitors, I’d love to hear from you.
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